Thinking of visiting Mestia in winter – in the mountainous Svaneti region of Georgia? This is absolutely one of the most beautiful, winter wonderland-y places I have ever been, but there are some things you must prepare for…. especially in the winter season.
Before my first trip to Georgia, I had honestly not even heard of the Svaneti region. But this region encompasses SO much more than I could have imagined – from folklore to landscapes to fascinating history and incredible food – all available right here in Mestia.
It’s like stepping into another world – one that is far removed from the one we are used to, both physically and socially, too.
However, with thix remoteness and high elevation, minimal access, and LOTS of snow comes the important responsibility to stay safe and know conditions before embarking on adventures. The beauty of the remote Caucuses is enthralling, but there are important things to know before visiting in winter.
What to Know Before Visiting Mestia in Winter
Here are some things to consider before a trip to Mestia during the winter months.
It’s Hard to Get To. There’s One (Long) Road in AND Out – it Can be Treacherous
When I learned Mestia was over 9 hours from Tbilisi, I was confused at first.
“What do you mean? It’s right there!” I pointed to it on the map, but then I noticed the tiny, windy road that has to nearly touch the Black Sea before doubling back north into the mountains to actually arrive in Mestia.
“ahhh, THAT’S why.”
It’s true; there’s only one road in and out of Mestia and most of the Svaneti region that is actually passable in winter. Sure, there are tiny roads and mountain passes, but most of these are fully closed off in the snowy parts of the year. Remember, these are the highest mountains in Europe!
And these mountains can be treacherous. This should go without saying, but do NOT travel to Mestia during a storm. Avalanches can (and do) happen and have claimed lives in the past, and storms can get hectic up here.
Apparently, we traveled to Mestia during one of the worst storms in 20 years (classic). Let’s just say I would not recommend you do the same.
How to Get to Mestia in Winter
It’s important to have an experienced driver to get to Mestia in winter and in snowy conditions. The best way would be to hire an experienced driver with a 4WD car, or get yourself to Zugdidi by bus or private car, and join a minibus going up the mountain.
The website GoTrip has drivers available from immediately to a few days in advance. Try and find a driver who has a 4WD car or is comfortable with mountain driving, or simply book a transfer to Zugdidi.
If you want to get a cheaper public transfer bus to Zigdidi, use the TTC app to check routes. From Zugdidi there are minubusses that go up to the Svaneti region multiple times a day from the main bus station, and the drivers know what they are doing.
Check the Weather
While this region is one of the most STUNNINGLY beautiful, it doesn’t always show its beauty to you. I mean this in a few ways…
First of all, it can be dangerous, which is definitely not beautiful. Avalanches can happen and have happened, and it’s important to know the weather will hold when going out. Storms can hit hard and strong up here and lead to tons of snow, rain, or wind.
Secondly, sometimes bad weather, clouds, snow, and rain will completely cover any views you may have had.
Some of the Most Incredible Mountain Views in the World
During my trip to Mestia, I honestly didn’t even know what it looked like for the first few days! I thought the Svan towers were beautiful, and inferred that there must be some pretty tall mountains surrounding the village. But it was only on the second-to-last day that we FINALLY saw said mountains and the true extent of their grandeur.
Some of the peaks around Mestia rival Patagonia with their dramatic, jagged appearance, and are taller than the alps! If you get a clear day you will be lucky, or try to wait for one to experience the true magic of Mestia in winter, with snowy peaks galore.
Safety First With All Adventures
As I have already mentioned, the importance of checking the weather and staying familiar with its changes cannot be understated.
Always make sure to have a plan, make sure someone always knows where you are going (especially if you are hiking or skiing off-piste), and familiarize yourself with risks involved in whatever you may choose to do.
It’s an Area with Rich History
The Svaneti region has a history entirely its own. They were on their own up here for generations, and developed their own language, customs, architecture, and even feudal history!
That’s right, the history here can get dark. Throughout history, it was common to have bloody fights with other families in the region or village. This is one of the reasons for the existence of Svan Towers – not only was the region too rugged to build one big wall, but each individual family having their own fortified tower enabled them to shelter there during fights with other families. Crazy, right?
They have their own versions of Georgian food, often a much paler and blonder complexion, and a dialect entirely their own up here in Mestia and the Svaneti region.
They Have Their Own Language
Our tour guide from Tbilisi would often look at us with confusion and tell us that he couldn’t understand the Mestia locals, either! The Georgian language up here has evolved to be quite different from the language you may find in other parts of the country or in Tbilisi.
There Will Be Doggos
Just like the rest of Georgia, be prepared for lots of stray dogs to be roaming around Mestia, even in winter. I found the dogs in the Svaneti region to be a lot larger and wolf-like than in Tbilisi – maybe they descended from wolves at one point! 😉
The dogs up here are mostly very friendly, and just want some pats and definitely a snack if possible. I made friends with lots of them here. Just make sure to let them sniff your hand before going in for the pet.
What to Do in Mestia in Winter
Assuming the snow isn’t too thick to walk outside (like it was when I was there), there are tons of beautiful, winter wonderland-y things to do in Mestia, even in the dead of winter season. Here are the best!
Head to Hatsvali – Go Skiing, or Just Ride the Cable Car + Head to the Highest Restaurant
Hatsvali is the ski resort right in Mestia and probably the most popular activity in Mestia in winter. There’s one cable car from town, and another ski lift that takes you to the top of the mountain. To drive to the parking lot of the ski lift, it’s about 5-10 minutes from Mestia.
There’s a place to rent gear at the lodge near the ski lift, or a few places to rent ski gear in town, too. Beginners can start at the ski lift to do some bunny slopes, but the coolest thing about Hatvali is that it’s really popular for off-piste skiing and many people ski all the way back down into Mestia from the top of the mountain – a run that is VERY long!
When we were there, Hatsvali had great-quality snow and was very uncrowded— a great break from the crowded slopes of the alps.
You do NOT have to ski down to take the ski lift to the top of the mountain. See, there’s a restaurant at the top of the ski lift with a stunning vantage point of all surrounding mountains, along with delicious food and, of course, chacha.
The restaurant is called Zuruldi, and it has the claim to fame of being the highest elevation restaurant in the region at 2340m. Grab a kubdari and a hot chocolate and relax by the fire – with a view!
Papas Qel Banya
On the way back from Hatsvali, you can experience a traditional banya tucked away deep in the forest. On a clear day, it would have an incredible mountain peak view, too.
Head here to soak in a warm jacuzzi nestled in the snow, relax in the sauna, and plunge in a cold pool in between! Borrow a towel and a sauna hat to be extra Georgian, and make sure to enjoy some tea.
Visit the Ethnography Museum
The ethnography museum (The Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography) looks out over Mestia, and offers lots of interesting keys to unlock the history of Mestia and its interesting relations with other empires throughout history.
There are relics here from throughout history, showing the region was almost always inhabited. There are stone tools from the 2nd millennium BC up to relics from early Christianity (which was founded in this area of the world).
There are also over 350 pins from the time and empire of Alexander the Great, and tools used in the last few hundred years in the region, too. Clearly this has always been a strategic position in world trade!
Visit a Svan Tower + Enjoy its Unique History
Svan towers are the most iconic and defining characteristic of Mestia and the whole Svaneti region. As I mentioned above (in the ‘rich history’ section, these beautiful towers actually exist because bloody feuds between families lead to each family needing their own fortification.
Apparently a high percentage of bloodlines were entirely wiped out in this region. Yikes. But today they are a historic relic to experience!
Day Trip to Ushguli
Speaking of Svan Towers, there’s an UNESCO village not too far from Mestia, too! Ushguli, the highest continuously inhabited settlement in all of Europe, has 5 small villages with dozens UNESCO heritage-confirmed Svan towers.
Ushguli is about an hour’s drive from Mestia, and a trip there is entirely dependent upon the conditions of the road. In fact, last winter was the VERY FIRST winter in history that the road between Mestia and Ushguli was plowed and maintained. In the past, Ushguli was entirely cut off in the winters, with locals completing 5-day treks between Mestia and Ushguli or getting around by horse in the summers.
Ushguli is one of the most picturesque places I have ever been, and is famous for lots of skiing – cross country skiing, heli skiing, and more. From here you can view Shkara, the highest mountain peak in Georgia (third highest in Europe) and enjoy a Georgian meal at one of the welcoming guest houses.
On the way, stop at the Tower of Love, and marvel at Queen Tamar’s Tower, and many other incredible views.
Watch Dede at Cinema & Pub DEDE
One of the MUST-DO things to do while in Svaneti is to watch the multiple award winning indie Georgian film that was set here. The movie Dede is truly incredible and extremely well-done, shining a light on the culture and hardships of life in Svaneti in the early 90’s.
It’s very affordable to watch this film (and grab a beer beforehand) and head down into the makeshift movie theater (think, bean bags and folding chairs) run by the movie director, twin sister. Simpy amazing!
Try the Local Cuisines (Or Learn to Make)
One of the most interesting things to do in Mestia is to attend a cooking class and learn how to make some local delicacies for yourself. We went to Masterclass Lali for a fantastic class in town. Also, Maia’s Guesthouse in Trabiani Village (where we learned to make Svan hats below) also offers cooking classes and guesthouse stays with classes.
If nothing else, here are some Svaneti-specific Georgian foods you can’t miss:
- Kubdari – a MUST. These are like khachapuri but with meat.
- Svaneti Salt – incredible local seasoning
- Tashmijabi – like mashed potatoes with cheese. Sticky and delicious!
Learn How to Make Svan Hats
One of the most unique things we did in Mestia was head up to the next village to Maia’s guesthouse and take part in a hands-on workshop learning how to make Svan hats.
What are Svan hats, you may ask? These wool hats are also specific to this region. You will find locals wearing them to keep their heads warm in winter and cool in summer (don’t ask me how, but they do) in a few different styles.
These Svan hats take 3-4 days to make, and Maia has made thousands in her lifetime. There are a few stages, from placing the wool, to rolling it out, to washing it and rolling it a few more times ,to molding it into a hat shape, to sewing the edges.
There were surely some unique ones in the workshop, and it was so cool to learn a local skill at a local’s home! She offers hat workshops, cooking classes, and a room in her guesthouse combined with these experiences, too.
Skiing Tetnuldi
Tetnuldi is the other ski resort close to Mestia. While we did not visit, I know it’s a popular activity in Mestia, especially in winter when the slopes are fresh with powder.
Explore the City Center
The city center of Mestia is small, but lively! There’s a central park which was 1-2m deep in snow while we were there, but would be lovely under less of a storm.
There are a few architecturally interesting modern buildings that provide a great contrast to the ancient Svan towers throughout the city. There are quite a few cafes and gift shops where you can pick up a quintessentially Georgian gift.
Mestia is a great place to wander for a few hours and see what you can find. It might be a few dogs in tow or a bottle of qvevri wine!
Drink Georgian Wine
Any travel guide to any region in Georgia would me remiss if it did not recommend drinking some local wine. With over a dozen wine regions dotting the country AND the oldest winemaking tradition in the world, Georgia has great wine everywhere you go.
From delicious bottles to homemade wine that most families make themselves, wine here is top quality and there are a lot of different varieties to taste.
Hiking in Snow Shoes – if you’re into that kind of thing.
I believe there are a couple of places to go showshoe hiking in the winter, but I would exercise extreme caution and make sure to check the weather and consult locals and experts about where you should be walking around Mestia in winter. Personaly, I stuck to walking around the town and snowboarding!
Where to Eat in Mestia
Here are the top places to eat that we tried.
Cafe Laila – Number One!
Cafe Laila is a Mestia staple – our tour guide told us that people love coming to Mestia just so they can check in here on Facebook! It’s understandable why it’s so popular – the food is incredible, and the atmosphere is totally unique!
When you enter Cafe Laila, you are greeted with flags hung up across the room, hundreds of business cards and bank notes under the table glass, and walls completely covered in sharpie signatures! It’s definitely an interesting vibe but one that is laid back and fun, encouraging conversation.
The food is all classic Georgian food options with some twists. Try the dumplings here – they come in a very unique pot baked on top!
Hotels Restaurants – Gistola, Posta
While we were in Mestia, we ate a lot of meals at our hotels. I ate at both Gistola and Posta, and can confirm the food is incredible at both! Gistola can create one of the most delicious Georgian food spreads I’ve ever seen, and Posta has live music during dinners each night. It’s totally safe to trust the hotel food up here in Mestia in winter – it’s top notch!
Vichnashi
I tried this tiny restaurant on the last night in Mestia and was happy I did! It’s unassuming and little but has delicious and affordable food and drinks.
Blue Mountains
This is a small family restaurant I passed by a few times but never got to try. It has great reviews and looks super cute, so I thought I would recommend it on here.
Coffee Kor
I got a coffee here while walking around town and it was delicious!
Where to Stay in Mestia in Winter
There are quite a lot of accommodation options in Mestia, from chalets to B&B’s. My group and I stayed in three different hotels, all of which I got to personally experience. They were all amazing! Here’s what I likes most about each:
Hotel Gistola
I personally stayed at Hotel Gistola. This hotel is a bit farther from town (maybe a 10 minute walk), but os really lovely. The rooms on each side have fantastic mountain views, there’s an indoor pool, and there are a few terraces that look out toward the village with great views.
The food here is immaculate, the rooms are comfortable and warm, and the service is professional. Highly recommend!
Posta Hotel
If you want to stay super central, Hotel Posta is for you. Located right in the center of it all, across from the main square, you can walk anywhere in town from here. Hotel Posta has modern and edgy room design and an amazing top-floor restaurant with live music.
The only cons I heard here were that the wifi was very unreliable and the music was sometimes too loud to chat while eating.
Paliani Hotel
Paliani Hotel is also very central and beautiful. It’s up on a hill across the river from the main town, giving way to amazing views of Mestia the all the Svan towers dotting the skyline. They also have great food here and some colorful decor.
That’s all I have for you for Mestia in winter! Make sure to leave a comment below or DM me on instagram if you have any more questions.
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